The Uncomfortable Truth About Emulsifiers in Skincare

Written by Dr. Oh

What they do, why some are problematic, and why they are still used

When choosing skincare, most people focus on active ingredients or hydration claims.
However, one of the most important and least discussed components is the emulsifier.

Emulsifiers allow oil and water to stay mixed, making creams and lotions possible.
But the same action that stabilizes a formula can also affect the skin barrier.

Why Strong Emulsifiers Can Be Problematic

The skin barrier is built from lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.
Strong chemical emulsifiers can partially solubilize these lipids, leading to:

• Increased moisture loss (TEWL)
• Chronic dryness and sensitivity
• Itchiness and barrier fatigue over time

Repeated daily exposure from multiple products can amplify this effect, especially for sensitive, eczema-prone, infant, or aging skin.

Why Are Strong Chemical Emulsifiers Still Widely Used?

Despite these concerns, strong emulsifiers remain common because they offer major industrial advantages:

• Excellent stability (resists separation during shipping and storage)
• Long shelf life (often 2–3 years)
• Lower cost and easier large-scale manufacturing
• Silky, lightweight textures many consumers prefer

They are legally approved and considered safe by regulations — but “approved” does not always mean barrier-supportive.

Commonly Used Chemical Emulsifiers (Sensitive Skin May React)

• PEG-100 Stearate
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
• Polysorbate 20 / 60 / 80
• Ceteareth-20, Laureth-7

These are not inherently toxic, but can be harsh on compromised or reactive skin.

Gentler, Skin-Friendly Alternatives

Formulators seeking barrier-respecting systems often use:

• Olivem 1000 (olive-derived, skin-mimicking)
• Montanov 68 / 202 (plant-based, adaptive hydration)
• Lecithin (cell-membrane compatible)
• Sugar-based emulsifiers (non-ionic, low irritation)

These require more careful formulation but offer better long-term skin tolerance.

Final Thoughts

Emulsifiers shape how a product interacts with your skin — not just how it feels.
For sensitive or compromised skin, how ingredients are combined matters as much as what they are.

Healthy skin is supported not by stronger actives,
but by smarter, barrier-respecting formulation design.